Thought this may help anyone that is planning an install.  BTW, the loop is the same for Fox and SN95s.

Tools needed:
two 9/16' box end wrenches
9/16" socket and ratchet (not needed, but helpful)
Drill (cordless works fine)
3/8" drill bit (and a few small ones for pilot holes)
sharp utility knife
tape measure
center punch and hammer - not really necessary either if you are steady with a drill)
jack and jack stands or ramps (or both)

Installation:
First get the car up in the air.  I drove my 95 up on ramps and chocked the rear wheels, but this was just barely high enough for me - and I'm not that big.

Leave the loop apart.  I loosely put it together before hand, and it would fit in there.  i had to dissamble it completely to get it in.  Before you crawl under th car, make sure you understad how it all fits together (big loop on top, short arm to the pasenger side).

get under the car and put the top of the loop (long half circle) over the driveshaft.  Get one of the side "arms" (I'll call them that) and put two bolts in it.  the rm goes to the outside of te loop and I used the top most holes.  pu te bolt in from the inside of the loop (by the driveshaft) and put a lock washer and a nut on the outside. Just hand tigten for now. repeat for the other bolt.  the loop will stay in place.  Now put the other 'arm' on the other side in the same fashion.  Now attach the lower loop the same way as the others.  You should have used a bol, a nut, and a loc washer on each of them.  

you should ow have 4 bolts, 4 nuts, 4 loc washers, and 4 fender washers remaining.  Find a spot where you want the loop to be.  NHRA mandates within 6' f the U joint.  I put the leading edge of the loop about 3" from the U joint.  the trailing edge is about 4.5" away.

At fist i had trouble fitting it.  the crossover tube on my off road H pipe was right where the loop should go and they hit - the top of the loop was a bit close tothe DS as well, BUT I noticed the "arms" weren't parallel with the floorpan.  when i pushed up on the loop - everything looked great, so I HOPED that i woul be fine once everthing got snugged down.
I sinced the bolts down a bit tighter to take up the slack, but still not fully tight.  

On the SN95 floorpan, there is a ridge on each side just behind where I put the loop "arms"  Also, the arms exted almost right up to the end of the front subframe.  if you have SF connectors, you may have to adjust placement.  Another good tip some people do it weld a plate to the subframes to mount the loop to - it's very secure then.

Since the loop rested on the H pipe, it stayed in place - you may need some wire or tie wraps to secure it while marking.  I used a center punch and marked the location of all EIGHT bolt holes (4 on each side).  Then i slid he loop down the DS for some rom.

My floor pan had rubber stopper in some punchout holealmost next to where I have to drill.  i used those to feel and make sure no wires or lines were inthe way.  Also check for relays, etc. under the seats! On the SN95 - there are none.

I then used a small drill bit and made a pilot hole on the 4 INSIDE marks.  Since I wantd to pull the loop up tighter to the frame - I used the inner bolt holes.  I used a BD VersaPac cordless drill and it went right throughthre floor pan.  It is VERY thin.  I then used 2 more preogressively larger bits to enlarge the holes.  even the final 3/8" bit went right through.

Since the bolts will come throught right in the middle of the seat (hidden from view)  used a utility knife and made a slit in the carpet across the floor under the seat.  then near the bolt holes, I made a nother cut front to back about 2" on each side.  that allowed me access to the bolt holes, but it is totally hidden from view.  I thnk The Fox has seperate carpet front and rear, but can't remember. Put a fender washer on each of the bolts  and drop them in the holes.  I then put a nut on the bottom and ran it up each one to flaten the floorpan.  remove the nuts then.  

Now put the loop back in place and line it up with the bolts. put a lock washer on and the nut and just snug it up, but don't tighten all the way.  Once all 4 are on, tighten all the way. I put the rachet and socket on the bolt above and tightened the nut with a wrench.  It is to the side enough you can hold the ratchet with one hand ad the wrench with another without much effort, but a buddy would make it easier.  As expected, it now fit the floor pan perfectly and the loop was centered around the DS and had about 1-1.5" of clearance over the H pipe. Whew!!

Now tigten the bolts around the loop.  These can be ackward, so use whatever combination of wrenches and rachet you can. Once they are all tight, go back one more time over all of them starting with the 'arm' bolts - just to be sure.

Check for clearance arond the DS and you're done!!

Lower the car.  if you can let it coast or idle slowly for about 10 feet and make sure the loop doesn't hit the DS.  Also listen closly the next time you drive a mile.

Now relax knowing you won't be doing a pole vault if a front U joint ever breaks on you.

BTW, since the floorpan is so thin, I plan on getting 4 more bolts and puttng them in the outside holes also.  In addition, it might not be a bad idea to get a 6-9" long plate and drill 4 holes and brace the inside of the floorpan where the bolts come trough.
Good luck and hope it helped,
jay
95gt